Day 61 - BEAR

This morning I woke up and met Cheryl Wilkinson for lunch and some souvenir shopping. We went downtown to the Paradise Cafe and then walked around in the various shops. Over the past two months I have tried really hard to not look like too much of a tourist, but I think I dropped my guard a bit today as I was wandering in and out of various Alaskan gift shops. As I was walking I did meet a Vanderbilt alumni. He graduated from the divinity school and was in Alaska doing some mission work. One of my professors from this past semester has a husband who is a professor in the Divinity School. He remembered having this particular professor and we shared stories about the Segovias for a few minutes in downtown Juneau, AK. Just another example of how small the world really is.

After lunch I met up with the Bornstein family and went for my final hike. We went "out the road" to a place called Cowie Meadows. For some reason, I am absolutely terrified of bears. Ever since my first hike to the John Muir Cabin, I have never been out in the woods and not thought of seeing a giant bear lurking around the corner. Every time a bird chirps or a twig snaps under my feet my heart skips a beat (or six) and I stop in my tracks. Lucky for me, I have been out hiking and running and yet to see a bear - until today.

The first part of the hike was actually quite enjoyable. We went to Cowie Meadows Cabin and then further along the coastline to the Blue Mussel Cabin. Along the way we saw lots of Fireweed and other flowers and berries. These forest service cabins are pretty neat. For a nominal fee you can rent them for the night and camp out. Each is equipped with a gas heater and a sink. Enough to make you feel comfortable, but not enough to ruin the mystique of camping.

The Blue Mussel Cabin is right on the water and it is not uncommon to see humpback whales wander into the cove. We went a little past Blue Mussel Cabin and came across a tree that was smoking. Someone had started a campfire and had not laid a proper base so the fire went underground. There was smoke coming from some holes in the ground right around the base of the tree. It was really interesting to think that there was a fire underground that I could not see. We took some pictures and then started our walk back to the trailhead.

Before every hike I ask Dr. Bornstein, "What are the chances that we see a bear today?" He usually just laughs and tells me that a bear sighting would be very unlikely. We made it maybe three quarters of the way back to the start of the trail when we my worst fear came to fruition. Standing no more than 60 or 70 yards away was a giant male grizzly bear. The bear saw us as soon as we saw him and began to look our way. His ears popped up and he stood to get a better view of us. We stayed together and retreated back off of the trail. We walked away, slowly, until Dr. Bornstein eventually went to check on the bear. The bear was still checking us out very curiously and eventually began to cross the meadow and come over towards our side.

The scariest thing about the bear sighting is that once the bear sees you, you are no longer in control. You could be 400, 500 yards away and the bear could very easily catch you if he/she so desired. That's what makes me so uncomfortable is the sense that even if I do everything I am supposed to do in a situation like this I am still completely at the whim of a 2,000 pound, 8 foot tall wild animal.

Eventually we ran into some thick brush and were forced back out onto the main trail. We could no longer see the bear so we assumed that we were in the clear. We all breathed a sigh of relief and began walking briskly towards the trailhead. About two minutes later we were stopped in our tracks again as we heard rustling and crashing from the brush no more than 50 or 60 feet away. We never actually saw the bear this time due to the thick brush, but it was there and we were very close.

At this point I had just about had enough of hiking so I did my best to try and get to the car as soon as possible. Unfortunately my hiking mates had other ideas. All of a sudden Dr. Bornstein needed to use the restroom and Sam decided he wanted berries (you know, the same berries the bears like to eat). I was so scared and ready to go. I think a lot of my fear came off as humor, but it was definitely no laughing matter.

The Bornsteins bought me pizza and soda to settle my nerves after our hiking adventure. What a scary day. Tomorrow is my last full day in Alaska...